Bourbon: A History of Tradition, Rebellion, and A Modern Comeback
Bourbon history is a massive topic, so much so that hundreds of books are dedicated to it. Therefore, this blog will provide a summary of Bourbon’s journey. As discussed in earlier blogs, bourbon can be produced anywhere in the United States, but to truly understand bourbon, we must investigate the history of early America.
Bourbon is a type of American whiskey deeply rooted in history, tradition, and rebellion. Historians today are still debating the origins of bourbon and the etymology of its name. However, it is generally agreed that bourbon's inception dates to the late 1700s when Scottish and Irish immigrants settled in America. The American Revolution disrupted the trade of rum, making it expensive. Consequently, distillers shifted their focus from molasses to grain, birthing the early forms of whiskey. These primitive whiskeys were not aged in barrels and were often sold with added flavors. It wasn’t until the 1820s that aged whiskey, known as bourbon, began to emerge.
The first documented mention of bourbon whiskey appeared in an advertisement in Bourbon County, Kentucky. Additionally, the first written reference to the use of charred barrels came in 1826 when a Lexington grocer made note of whiskey stored in "burnt barrels." However, these references only hint at the emergence of bourbon in Kentucky. The precise individual credited with distilling grain whiskey, aging it in charred barrels, and coining the term "bourbon" remains a subject of debate. While Elijah Craig, a Baptist minister, is often cited; it's more likely that bourbon's creation was a collective effort involving many individuals.
During this era, barrels were the primary vessels for shipping goods and reusing them was common practice. To eliminate odors and flavors from the previous use, distillers often charred the inside of barrels, a process known as "charring," before reusing them. Throughout the 19th century, distillers typically sold barrels to saloons and liquor stores, with customers bringing their own containers for purchase. It wasn’t until George Gavin Brown introduced Old Forester, the first bourbon sold in bottles, that the industry shifted towards bottled sales.
However, with the increased availability of barrels and bottled bourbon came a new challenge: rectifiers, today known as Non-Distilling Producers (NDPs). These entities would procure barrels of bourbon and blend them with neutral grain spirits (vodka), often diluting the whiskey and then adding color and flavor. This practice flooded the market with cheap, inferior bourbons, tarnishing the reputation of the spirit. In response, the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 was created to keep the reputation of bourbon at a higher standard than other American whiskey.
The bourbon industry faced another significant hurdle with the onset of Prohibition in 1919, which forced the closure of small distilleries. However, six distillers were granted licenses to produce spirits for medicinal purposes during this period. Among them, Brown-Forman remains a prominent player in the industry today, producing iconic brands such as Old Forester, Woodford Reserve, and this small distiller in Lynchburg, Tennessee, Jack Daniel’s.
The bourbon industry started to decline in the 1960s and 70s. The youth of America rejected the spirit because they saw bourbon as their parents’ drink. Vodka sales soared and whiskey sales started to decline. Smirnoff vodka launched a new marketing campaign, and the martini was the cocktail of choice. The bourbon industry, with declining sales, hurt itself even more as it reacted to declining sales by lowering the price of bourbon. Now the public saw bourbon as the cheap man's drink and more distillers started to shut their doors and sales declined even more.
While bourbon drinkers remained faithful to the spirit, it stayed in the background while clear spirits like tequila rose to popularity. However, while nobody was buying bourbon, it was aging in barrels that would add to its value once people were interested in it again. In the 90’s, bourbon distilleries began introducing "super-premium" labels, featuring single barrel, small batch, unique mash bills, and extra-aged bourbons. Alongside that, they organized tastings and paired bourbons with food and cigars.
With the rise in sales of these premium offerings, consumers began re-evaluating existing brands, leading to increased sales. By the early 21st century, because of these new techniques in bourbon making, distilleries were able to increase their prices, and bourbon sales stabilized and started to climb once again. Those distillers and the mixologists they worked with brought classic whiskey cocktails like the Manhattan, old fashioned, and mint julep back to life. Because of their dedication to the spirit and American heritage, we can enjoy these cocktails today and into the future.
